Difficulty starting OB ride with V3 - sensor issue?

[Nacbikes]

Hi,

Just got my PP V3 recently and have been having difficulty getting the OB calibration to start.

I’m thinking the issue is my (rear wheel) speed/cadence sensor, but I want to confirm before I buy a new one. The speed cadence sensor pairs successfully to my Garmin Edge 510 all the time, and stays paired, but only seems to pair to my PP when the crank and spoke magnets are directly beside the sensor arm. After holding the button for 4 seconds, the PP blinks green, then solid yellow, and then I can pair it to my Garmin. The PP continues to stay solid yellow once paired to the Garmin and shows 0 Watts. Then I go out for my OB cal ride and it stays yellow, no red-green flashing even after several minutes. The screen reads 0 Watts constantly. When I stop, the PP light is still solid yellow. When I check the pairing, the PP can no longer find the sensor, presumably because I’ve spun the wheels and the magnets aren’t eights beside the sensor anymore... my best guess.

I’ve played around with the PP location on my handlebars and changed the sensor battery, but I always get the same result.

Does it seem like a sensor signal issue to you?

I’m thinking of trying again with a front hub speed sensor only.

Also, I haven’t downloaded and installed ISAAC for Mac yet and am wondering if that may help - is it necessary?

Thanks in advance,

Nathan

[spangelsaregreat]

If it is showing 0 watts on your Garmin then the speed sensor must be picked up by the PowerPod as my understanding is it won't connect to a Garmin unless a speed sensor is paired.

Did you try pressing the button once you had the solid yellow light?

From memory once you pair the sensors it enters the calibration mode but you need to ride a few metres to get the solid yellow light and then press it again to begin the out and back calibration.

I am sure John will confirm in due course.

Regards

[Nacbikes]

That’s good to know the 0W indicates the sensor is picked up.

Yes, I pressed the button again, both before and after riding a bit, but it always stays solid yellow.

Thanks,

Nathan

[Velocomp]

That’s good to know the 0W indicates the sensor is picked up.

Yes, I pressed the button again, both before and after riding a bit, but it always stays solid yellow.

Thanks,

Nathan

Hmm...press-hold your button for about 12 seconds. Wait for the light to go out momentarily, then start flashing again. Release the button. This does a hard reset of the unit.

[Nacbikes]

Hi John,
I reset the PP like you said - everything paired properly, but I happened to notice I was getting a cadence reading, but NOT a speed reading when I spun my back wheel with the cranks (stationary). It seems the speed sensor is the problem after all - it is a fairly old unit - although I find it interesting that the pairing with the PP worked even though there’s no speed reading. Anyway, I’ll buy a new speed sensor and hopefully that will work.
Thanks,
Nathan

[spangelsaregreat]

Have you tried a new battery in the sensor?

[Nacbikes]

Yes, I replaced the battery. It’s a Garmin dual speed/cadence sensor and the light flashes red when the crank arm magnet passes the sensor, but it doesn’t flash green like it’s supposed to when the wheel magnet passes the sensor - even with adjustment. From what I’ve read on Garmin forums, either the chain is magnetized and interfering with the sensor or the sensor is simply dead.

[lorduintah]

I think the problem i sthat the PP V3 does not work with the dual sensor Garmin setup. Take a look at the literature for the PP.

Right on the PP details page near the bottom of all the information and reviews:


NOTE: An ANT+ speed sensor is required. PowerPod may be incompatible with these speed sensors:

Garmin GSC-10
Giant Ridesense

As far as the GSC-10 - I have gone through several of these - there is a very thin wire to the sensing arm for the rear wheel that allows distance ridden (with the wheel circumference) and that wire is easily broken. So getting no information on the wheel rotating will not do you much good.

[Nacbikes]

Ah, I missed reading that about the Garmin GSC 10 - the one I have. I did actually manage to get the speed sensor to start working again by tapping the sensor arm sharply a few times as some people have recommended. I was then able to do the OB cal ride successfully. It seems a little precarious, though, and I’m not surprised to hear that the sensor wire is easily broken.

A couple issues:

1) In my excitement at finally getting things to work, I forgot to come to a complete stop before clicking the button to start the OB cal ride - will this majorly affect my calibration? The watts shown seem pretty accurate, based of how I feel compared to when I’m on my trainer, but I’m worried they may be a bit high.

2) The watts sometimes temporarily drop to 0W when accelerating downhill (I.e., above 45 kph). Not sure what that’s about.

I did order a front hub speed sensor just in case this one is actually wonky and conks for good.

Thanks for the input,

Nathan

[Velocomp]

Ah, I missed reading that about the Garmin GSC 10 - the one I have. I did actually manage to get the speed sensor to start working again by tapping the sensor arm sharply a few times as some people have recommended. I was then able to do the OB cal ride successfully. It seems a little precarious, though, and I’m not surprised to hear that the sensor wire is easily broken.

A couple issues:

1) In my excitement at finally getting things to work, I forgot to come to a complete stop before clicking the button to start the OB cal ride - will this majorly affect my calibration? The watts shown seem pretty accurate, based of how I feel compared to when I’m on my trainer, but I’m worried they may be a bit high.

2) The watts sometimes temporarily drop to 0W when accelerating downhill (I.e., above 45 kph). Not sure what that’s about.

I did order a front hub speed sensor just in case this one is actually wonky and conks for good.

Thanks for the input,

Nathan

Wait for your new speed sensor. Speed is an important input, and your GSC-10 doesn't sound reliable.

[Nacbikes]

Will do - thanks again.

[spangelsaregreat]

Dual Speed and Cadence sensors do work with PowerPod. I use a Giant Ridesense on one of my bikes with no issues. The problem with the GSC 10 is where the physical link between the Speed sensor arm and the main unit fails. It is a well known issue (had about three fail on me over time) hence why they are not recommended. I did have one work fine with PowerPod but it eventually went the same way as previous ones so moved to the newer models.