First time Powerpod user here. Saw this a year ago but the V4 update and lower price finally made me bite although I was skeptical.
Overall I am really impressed that someone figured out how to make something like this work. I've been using a smart trainer so i know how certain wattages "feel" and the Powerpod seems to be giving accurate numbers. I don't think it's for everyone but it is definitely an engineering marvel.
now to the subject of the post:
## High watts after auto pause
I found a quirk that causes temporary high wattage when you take a break long enough and take your hands off the handlebars. Here's my theory on how it happens:
- you come to a stop for a break (ex: snack/drink break) and take your hands off the bars
- the bars turn/lean to the side immediately causing the Powerpod to tilt downward (due to the head tube angle)
- the wahoo unit autopauses while Powerpod is in this downward tilt
- you are finished taking a break, straighten your handlebars w/ Powerpod now in original tilt positoin, and start biking
- the wahoo unit unpauses w/ the Powerpod in its original tilt but significantly different from the downward tilt it "remembered" while pausing
- due to this, Powerpod seems to think it is going uphill causing high wattages
- eventually it autocorrects itself
I first experienced this in 10/1 ride file around mile 5.5s and also 10/3 ride file around mile 9. I thought it was a fluke on the 10/1 ride because it was windy that day but the 10/3 ride barely had any wind. fortunately i figured out what it was and my workaround right now is to make sure the handlebars are in the same position before and after the pause.
## Low watts downhill
Maybe I am just not used to all the inertia going downhill (compared to indoor smart trainer), but it does seem to be reading a little low downhill.
If someone could please check my rides/profiles i would appreciate it,
10/1 - has the initial out & back calibration from first-time device setup
10/2 - did a threshold out and back ride, there almost no wind. used this to check calibration and recalibrate.
10/3 - long ride, i believe this used the recalibrated settings
## one more tidbit
broke a collarbone several weeks ago so i'm using a mountain bike to train since it's more upright. the 3 ride files attached are using that bike.
High watts after auto-pause, low watts downhill. Mostly good overall.
High watts after auto-pause, low watts downhill. Mostly good overall.
- Attachments
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- Velocomp_10_03_2021_0630_21_Miles.ibr
- (265.93 KiB) Downloaded 94 times
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- Velocomp_10_02_2021_2331_5_Miles.ibr
- (63.84 KiB) Downloaded 99 times
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- Velocomp_10_01_2021_1703_8_Miles.ibr
- (107.36 KiB) Downloaded 94 times
Re: High watts after auto-pause, low watts downhill. Mostly good overall.
Your calibration looks fine.
In your 10/1 and 10/3 files, there is evidence that the tilt angle of your unit changed (10/3 ride file, at the 39 minute mark; 10/1 file, at the 26 minute mark.
If you're riding a mountain bike, what may be happening is that, after a rest, when you start riding again your shocks don't settle in to exactly the same position. If so the tilt angle of PP will change, and it will take 2 minutes for things to settle back down.
One way to minimize this problem is to lockout your shocks.
In your 10/1 and 10/3 files, there is evidence that the tilt angle of your unit changed (10/3 ride file, at the 39 minute mark; 10/1 file, at the 26 minute mark.
If you're riding a mountain bike, what may be happening is that, after a rest, when you start riding again your shocks don't settle in to exactly the same position. If so the tilt angle of PP will change, and it will take 2 minutes for things to settle back down.
One way to minimize this problem is to lockout your shocks.
John Hamann
Re: High watts after auto-pause, low watts downhill. Mostly good overall.
thanks for the response. I'll look into that. I thought I locked out my fork but apparently didn't.Velocomp wrote: ↑Sun Oct 03, 2021 1:52 pm Your calibration looks fine.
In your 10/1 and 10/3 files, there is evidence that the tilt angle of your unit changed (10/3 ride file, at the 39 minute mark; 10/1 file, at the 26 minute mark.
If you're riding a mountain bike, what may be happening is that, after a rest, when you start riding again your shocks don't settle in to exactly the same position. If so the tilt angle of PP will change, and it will take 2 minutes for things to settle back down.
One way to minimize this problem is to lockout your shocks.
that does bring a question though. does that mean the Powerpod wouldn't be suitable for off-road riding with a mountain bike? i imagine the tilt problem is worse specially on a full suspension bike with both a front and rear suspension.
also, so i don't have to ask for future bikes, what is it that you look for in a ride file that indicates whether the calibration looks good/bad?