Variables For Setup iBike Aero

[tyhaar]

I have various bikes and setups and was wondering if making multiple profiles per what equipment/clothing/wheels/etc... would make a difference in that particular bike wattage make out per bike? We are talking about variables of forces to which make the iBike work within the software also, right...

I would like to create profiles of various sorts to make up training vs. racing. I'm impressed with intial tests but I'm skeptical of true conditions of equipment in racing conditions vs. training conditions.

So far the flat roads produce lower wattage in my opinion vs. PT in the past. Going uphill seems to be accurate. Sprinting 80-90% was within range. It seems to me tempo riding with calm conditions wind/temp wise on the flats makes inaccurate wattage output. I followed the instructions to a tee, and even created more info. that was advised.

Most efforts on my particular flat road produces 180 watts average zone 1 tempo for the PT, but iBike Aero shows it at 117 watts after uploading to software after coastdowns and 4 mile test?

[Velocomp]

Make sure to perform the wind offset calibration prior to your ride, after letting your iBike adjust to outdoor temperature. Also, if you did your coast down calibrations prior to performing the wind offset that could be a problem too.

If neither of these work then please send me a ride file at jhamann@velocomp.com and we'll diagnose.

We've ridden about 400 miles in the past week here in Moab with 2 iBikes, 2 Quarq CinQos, and 1 1/2 PowerTaps (one of the PT batteries died). All kinds of riding conditions: hills, flats, rough roads, high speeds. All units are within a few % of each other...

[coachboyd]

I have a different set up for training, road racing, and criteriums. For road racing and crits I am using race setup on everything, just different positions.
Yesterday I just did a new set of coastdowns and a 4 mile ride with a borrowed wireless Power Tap wheel. For the 2 mile out and 2 mile back ride the iaero read 262 watts and the power tap 264.

I've been having some great results with the iaero and coastdowns. For the 5 coastdowns I did yesterday, all of them were within .007 of each other on the aero number. I think the biggest key is find a good road to do the coastdowns. I have a smooth road that is very sheltered from the wind and no traffic. In fact, on my 4 mile ride I didn't see one car. I also find that getting as constant a gradient as you can for the coastdowns seems to help.

[tyhaar]

Make sure to perform the wind offset calibration prior to your ride, after letting your iBike adjust to outdoor temperature. Also, if you did your coast down calibrations prior to performing the wind offset that could be a problem too.

If neither of these work then please send me a ride file at jhamann@velocomp.com and we'll diagnose.

We've ridden about 400 miles in the past week here in Moab with 2 iBikes, 2 Quarq CinQos, and 1 1/2 PowerTaps (one of the PT batteries died). All kinds of riding conditions: hills, flats, rough roads, high speeds. All units are within a few % of each other...

John,

I did the wind offset today after letting the unit get used to outside temps. I keep my bikes in the house so were I did my intervals is about 5-10 minutes away, then I did the wind offset over there letting unit adjust to outside temps riding over. I usually don't have to much light left after work, so its a hurry up get dressed and get going.

My understanding with the wind offset is to zero out the reading and then hit the middle button? Is this correct?

The unit right now after getting back from training is locked up in the wireless fail screen not letting me download to software to view. How do you get this reset?

I did do the wind offset prior to doing my coast downs and 4 miler with intial setup last Sunday.

Ty

[racerfern]

If you get WLS FAIL just press the center button once. That will get you back to regular screens. Don't hit the center button again if you can help it otherwise it will look for the wireless signals and you'll be back where you started.

[tyhaar]

If you get WLS FAIL just press the center button once. That will get you back to regular screens. Don't hit the center button again if you can help it otherwise it will look for the wireless signals and you'll be back where you started.

Yeah was doing that but it stayed on that fail screen acting if it was locked up. I finally just took the battery out after an hr. to reset it....

[racerfern]

I had that once and only once. I did what you did and it's been fine since.