AeroPod, PowerPod and Newton

I had just recently changed the batteries in the system unit, wireless unit, and cadence sensor to correct wild cadence readings. All seemed fine. Had a road race scheduled today (San Ardo in the Northern California / Nevada District). The reported values seemed find during my warmup but about 15 minutes into the race I noticed 1. the display was getting very dim for minutes at a time, and 2. watts were spiking > 5000, intermittently. I did a trip reset but the behavior continued. After the race and another trip reset during cool down the unit seemed to function normally. When I downloaded the files I noticed that _all_ recording stopped about an hour into the race (total race time about 2 hours) although I was getting the dimming and power spikes on the display until the end of the race.

Seems pretty screwy ... any ideas?

I just started using the iBike Pro in July. So far it's been reasonably reliable but today has shaken my confidence in the unit. No being able to depend on a bike computer for racing is pretty much a show stopper.

I'd appreciate other's experiences.

Greg Bollella
Cat 2 Road
Webcor / Alto Velo

It is very possible you have a bad batch of batteries - they could be "old" as far as shelf life. It is not necessarily the iBike. Have you upgraded the firmware? What does the battery reading screen tell you? The dim screen sure points to a battery issue. Second choice is that the contacts in the battery compartment are not making solid continuity.

The final choice - which is also quick - is to hard reset the iBike.

If you have a voltage meter, check both the iBike battery and the wireless head battery. One of the two may have failed and causing the other one to do the work of two. Without a voltmeter go to the battery screen and check the voltage. Then pop in the other battery and check that one too.

I think I did get a bad batch (low cost deal on the Web, Duracell, but they did not come in original packaging). However, I noticed this and replaced unit w/ new, in package, Energizer. But the wireless mount batt was still from that Duracell batch ...

Firmware: 402

batt says 288 with unit unmounted.

The unit is only a couple of months old ... not sure why the contacts would already be failing ... if so, sounds more like a design defect.

Is having to do a hard reset common?

lorduintah wrote:It is very possible you have a bad batch of batteries - they could be "old" as far as shelf life. It is not necessarily the iBike. Have you upgraded the firmware? What does the battery reading screen tell you? The dim screen sure points to a battery issue. Second choice is that the contacts in the battery compartment are not making solid continuity.

The final choice - which is also quick - is to hard reset the iBike.

Both were new yesterday but the wireless one might have been from a bad batch ... although should have been ok for a couple of hours.

racerfern wrote:If you have a voltage meter, check both the iBike battery and the wireless head battery. One of the two may have failed and causing the other one to do the work of two. Without a voltmeter go to the battery screen and check the voltage. Then pop in the other battery and check that one too.

One thing to remember, "should have" is still and assumption. You must be sure
So put a new durecell (or whatever is brand new) into the wireless head too.

The recommended battery rotation by Velocomp is:
New battery goes into the wireless and the battery from the wireless goes into the iBike.
But this assumes that you had a little used battery in the wireless to start with and once the
rotation process is good, the one in the wireless is never in long enough to get weak.

Russ

Today I had a new batt in the wireless stem and one in the unit. And, yesterday I did a hard reset. No display problems today.

Russ wrote:One thing to remember, "should have" is still and assumption. You must be sure
So put a new durecell (or whatever is brand new) into the wireless head too.

The recommended battery rotation by Velocomp is:
New battery goes into the wireless and the battery from the wireless goes into the iBike.
But this assumes that you had a little used battery in the wireless to start with and once the
rotation process is good, the one in the wireless is never in long enough to get weak.

Russ