PowerPod settings for MTB

[worms1414]

Hello, the whole forum.
Let me start with the fact that after reading the review on https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2016/03/pow ... eview.html, I knew that this is the only device that I can almost afford and I will want to get it at all costs.
After some time, I purchased PP Elite.
I regret a bit that I could not afford the richest version, now I am probably forced to buy other variants and finally pay more, I also do not know if I will be able to fully upgrade my version of the Elites.

When I received the PP, my happiness was great, although for two days I was very nervous because I was unable to carry out the calibration procedure. Fortunately, I somehow managed to do it.

I use this power measurement on a full suspension MTB which has the option of being half locked or fully locked, which doesn't mean that the suspension is minimally off. It will definitely stiffen.
In my case, the routes that I follow are mainly asphalts, bicycle paths, public roads, of better or worse quality, 75% of them are such roads because I live in the city center. 25% are forest roads, gravel roads, cross-country skiing.
I would like to set the ISSAK PP as best as possible for this application and I don't know if I did it all right.
My weight is 78KG, usually I ride with a backpack which weighs around 7KG, the bike itself is over 15KG. I wonder where it will be better to add the weight of the backpack to my weight, or is it much better if I add this weight to the bike?
The next thing that bothers me is the fact that I try to do interval training and usually I'm very dissatisfied with them. It is very difficult for me to drive in a certain power zone, or I am significantly exceeding or too low the value in which I should be.

Recently, I did an FTP test from Garmin.
The test is divided into 5 main stages where I have to increase the power each time.
I significantly exceeded the first two stages, and then in 3 minutes after 1 minute my power dropped from 300W to 80, then 0, and it remained so for quite a long time.
I didn't change my position, the weather was windy, the buildings were on the right or left, I didn't do anything else.
I do not know what is the fault, I suspect a bad configuration in the software on the computer.
I use a Garmin 1030 computer, cadence and speed on the ANT + rear wheel

Maybe someone just like me uses PP and is able to give me the right configuration for a bike similar to mine?
I will be very grateful for your help.
Greetings.

Sorry for my english, i use google translate


Thank you very much for your willingness to help. Maybe you will be able to view my Garmin file from today's ride, where for me everything starts from 45 minutes for good, loss of measurement.
I tried to stop pedaling later to get the cadence to zero and started to move again, the power was on but the reading was very incorrect. Once I started riding without holding the handlebars, I could somehow control the power with a slower pedaling.
I don `t understand what` s going on.
The mount is as stiff as a rock.
The ISSAK file will be readable for only 10 minutes, I am going to update the PP when I collect the cash and I will be sure that I will manage to control all the data so that they are correct.

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/5612617056

I will add the settings that I am currently using, and soon I will be able to save the full route, so the analysis of correct operation will be 100% possible.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/x6PkYzbkrdcy5DBdA

[worms1414]

John.
I did a calibration ride, I had to go to it for a long time, but in the end I made it.
I present it for analysis.
I would like to add that it was very windy, up to 50W I was going against the wind, I had a turn and the wind was up to 100W in my back.
Then I hit the road, giving it my best.
After returning, I connected the PP to the computer and it led me through the settings, even though I was creating a specific profile before the ride.
In any case, the type of asphalt changed, and the pressure that I had set to over 7 bar, I changed it to 3.5 bar.
When I changed that Crr from 0.0097 I think, it shifted to 0.0172.

I get lost in it a bit now, I know that during the whole ride, sometimes the Watts seemed too low to me because my pulse and load were almost at their maximum, and Watts seemed quite low to me.

It seems to me that before the ride I set 3.5 bar and Crr 0.0082, I don't know why it was different after the ride.
I think I should set Crr so that Watts are counted from low to high and this is the degree of rolling resistance.
On my bike with a 2.9 inch 2.1 tire, the tread is quite sharp on good terrain with high rolling resistance.

What makes me happy is that I finally have a full driving record.

John, how do you see my records now?

[Velocomp]

Please do not send emails to me and then make a duplicate posting on the forum.