Not Workin

[dgf]

I was real pleased with the Newton on my road bike - seemed to give me consistent numbers ride to ride (based on perceived exertion). I've been using it on my tri bike the last few weeks and initially it seemed to be working fine although my power output seemed significantly less than what I'd see on my road bike - figured it was just the position change. Anyway the last handful of rides, I've been getting a lot of episodes where it doesn't read/display any power when I know, based on perceived exertion from my road bike, I should be up in the 3-400 watt range.

I've done the hard reset a couple times without any luck, checked my profile settings - weights/wheels/riding position/etc, checked my wind scaling numbers and I think I'm good there and I do a tilt test/wind cal before every ride...still won't work. Got so frustrated this weekend I was lucky my wife was with me or Newt was going into the brush!! Decided to do another hard reset, double check my settings and then do a cal ride (attached) again - seemed like it went fine and afterward seemed like numbers made sense based on perceived exertion. I took off on a ride (file attached) and at about the 1.8 mile mark when I started putting some power to it, watts went to zero. When I relaxed, power came back on. Rather than get frustrated and take it off so I didn't have to look at it, I just left it on the whole ride, did some intervals based on perceived exertion/HR and noticed while I was doing them whenever I get over 200 watts the power display goes to zero - when the instantaneous power scale goes from 2 to 4 the watts display goes to zero. Did that everytime thru the ride. On the ride file, it's easy to see I did my last 5 minute interval roughly between 45" to 50" and can see watts down at zero while my HR was up in the 160's going up 5-8% hill.

Anyway, it ain't working right and what it seems to be doing is going kaput when watts go over 200...??? Maybe that means something to someone...????

[Velocomp]

The problem is your cadence reading. When cadence = 0 then watts = 0.

Note that at the 1.8 mile mark your cadence dropped to zero.

Your cadence readings are dropping to zero throughout the ride.

Make sure your cadence sensor is positioned properly and that your cadence magnet passes within 1-2 coin widths of the sensor.

That should fix things.

[dgf]

Thanks, I wondered about that but when I'd watch I never saw a cadence of zero - I was in a custom training program and cadence doesn't show up. I wonder if under load there is enough deflection it moves too far from the sensor?? Easy fix - we'll see. Thanks again.

[Velocomp]

By the way, in your Isaac software there is a menu item, "Tools/Repair/Repair Ride for Missing Cadence" you can use to see what your Newton was recording

I highlighted your entire ride (there were cadence dropouts all over the place) and you can see you did have a good ride, with lots of high-watts efforts!

[dgf]

Thanks tons! When I was goofin around with the files I went into the Repair section...of course, I didn't think it was the cadence sensor so didn't mess with that!! When I was riding with my wife the other day getting frustrated, she pointed right at the speed and cadence sensors and said "I bet it's those things"...

[racerfern]

Ah! Two lessons learned.

[falcone]

Hi there,

I am having similar problems with my ibike newton. When I turn the unit on, it picks up the speed/cadence sensor and heart rate monitor ok. As I start my ride the watts appear clearly. After 2 kilometres, the watt reading information disappears. A tad frustrating as of the 4 rides I have used the ibike newton on, this has occurred on 2 occasions. Any help on this matter would be really appreciated.

[racerfern]

@falcone

Please post the ride file with the problem and we'll try to help you out.

[falcone]

cool. let me see what i can do

[dgf]

My unit has been working flawlessly since I adjusted my cadence sensor - the sensor and magnet literally almost touch "at rest" for it to work consistently under power. Interesting to me that my ancient hand made Reynolds steel road bike seems to have less bottom bracket sway at power than my new stiff as a board carbon tri bike!!