Dash: Pros and Cons

[pherselman]

I have been using the dash for a few months now, overall like it, much easier to use than my IPro. I made a list of pros and cons, might be missing some stuff listed on cons but no manual yet:

Pros:
Color coded zones
Customised screens
Easier to read
Always have my phone with me

Cons:
No trainer mode yet. It is indoor training time now, and I can't use my WKO and power workouts. This is one of the main reasons I switched early, and I think the website is misleading, stating that indoor trainer is enabled.
No cumulative data as in IPRO.
Unable to build custom workouts
Touch screen scratches easily, and seems to lose sensitivity halfway through ride( unable to get options menu or switch screens)
Steering tube mount works itself loose, need to be tightened down which then affects steerer tube play

The cons can easily be fixed, I guess it is the price to pay for early adopters, think the dash has huge potential, just not there yet

[racerfern]

I'm most concerned about your steerer tube problem. I've never seen any head tube screw come loose so I think something else may be going on here. Do you have enough spacers to clear the top of the steerer tube? Is the screw bottoming out against something and not allowing the mount to tighten down. What you're describing is something that needs to be solved.

Finally, just to make sure, you should be tightening the steerer tube screw prior to tightening the screw(s) that bind the stem onto the steerer tube itself.

I've seen some lack of sensitivity part way through a long ride (both from the touch screen and from my wife) but this was in the beta version. Have you designed your own custom screens and if so what data do they contain?

[pherselman]

The dash came loose after a service by my LBS, so I will try again setting the steering tube, tightening the stem bolts and then re tightening the mount. I do have custom screens, the home screen is power, speed, distance, heart rate and cadence.

[racerfern]

It starts to make sense now.
1) Tighten steerer tube (head tube) with the iDash mount so there is no play in the head set.
2) Tighten stem bolts.

If you go back to re-tighten the steerer tube after tightening the stem bolts you can cause binding, careful there.

[lorduintah]

Definitely tighten everything correctly. You can destroy a headset very quickly.

Be very careful if anything is carbon, too - these require torque wrenches.

Tom

[pherselman]

Yes, I always use torque wrenches, the only thing that I can see happening is that the long lever effect of the dash is causing the steerer tube bolt to vibrate loose( rough roads here), I usually tighten it until no play in headset, then torque the stem bolts to 5NM. Wonder if a bit of loctite would help?

Paul

[Velocomp]

Indoor trainer is a very high priority for us. As soon as we can get it through Apple you'll have it.

[lorduintah]

Stay away from loctite - you will regret every tiny drop on a bike. A bike is supposed to be disassembled for repairs and maintenance.

What you may need to do is to partially put in the steerer screw for the headset, tap on it to move the compression fitting lower in the tube - this will give you a little more pull downwards. The fitting may have worked up the shaft some.

Tom

[pherselman]

will give that a try, thanks

[pherselman]

Thanks for the reply John, any rough timeline, and any info on the other features?
Cheers, Paul

[Steve_Davidson]

Yes, I always use torque wrenches, the only thing that I can see happening is that the long lever effect of the dash is causing the steerer tube bolt to vibrate loose( rough roads here), I usually tighten it until no play in headset, then torque the stem bolts to 5NM. Wonder if a bit of loctite would help?

Paul

Paul, a couple of things to try / consider:-

I'm assuming its a carbon steerer tube.

Take out the expander and clean it and make sure there is no grease inside the fork. I've had great success with some carbon assembly paste on inside of the fork (make sure you don't get any on the bearings).

Loctite thread lock is fine to use on the screw that goes into the fork bung but you shouldn't need it.

Consider a longer bung to give better purchase inside the fork and spread the load. This is one of the best options and reduces the stress on the fork significantly, especially if you have a hole in the stem extension at the clamp.

cheers

Steve